Coccidia FAQ ()
Published: June 18, 2008

What is coccidia?

Coccidiosis is an infection with a one-celled organism; these organisms are classified as protozoa and are called coccidia. Coccidia are not worms; they are microscopic parasites that live within cells of the intestinal lining. Because they live in the intestinal tract and commonly cause diarrhea, they are often confused with worms. The most common strains of coccidia found in Bearded Dragons are Isospora and Eimeria.

How did my Bearded Dragon become infected with coccidia?

Coccidia occur naturally in Bearded Dragons. Oocysts (immature coccidia) are passed in the feces of the Dragon. They lie in the environment and eventually sporulate (mature) into a more developed oocyst, which can infect the Dragon again. Other Dragons may also become infected. This process can occur in as little as 6 hours, but it usually takes 7-10 days. If the sporulated oocysts are swallowed, they mature in the Dragon's intestine to complete the life cycle. If the oocysts should be swallowed by a cricket, or any other prey insect, the Dragon may also become infected by eating the insect(s). As long as the Bearded Dragon's immune system doesn't become compromised from other illnesses, parasites or stress, the coccidia doesn't increase to a level that impinges on the Dragon's overall health.

What kinds of problems are caused by coccidia infection?

Direct side effects of a very severe infestation, long term, in a weakened animal, can be bleeding from the digestive system walls, metabolic poisoning from an overload of worms, displacement of food leading to malnutrition, anemia from the bleeding, lethargy, etc.

How is coccidia infection diagnosed?

Coccidiosis is diagnosed by performing a microscopic examination of the feces. Since the oocysts are much smaller than the eggs of the intestinal worms, a very careful study must be made. The first noticeable symptom of elevated coccidia levels is the distinctly strong odor produced in the feces, and the most common effect is a loss of appetite, which generally isn't serious in an adult.
How is the coccidia infection treated?
The most commonly used drug to treat high levels of coccidia is a sulfa-type antibiotic called Albon (sulfadimethoxine). The top 3 recommended dosage/treatment regimes are as follows:
50mg/kg for 3 days on / 3 days off / 3 days on and then have a fecal exam.
50mg/kg for 5 days and then every other day until fecals are negative.
75mg/kg the first day and then 40mg/kg for the next 6 days.

Albon's Side Effects

Known side effects produced by using Albon are: sulfa crystals in the animal's urine, which is not a problem in animals that stay well hydrated. Less common to have Keratoconjunctivitis sicca or 'KCS' (which is the technical term for a condition also known as 'dry eye'. It occurs because of inadequate tear production. Symptoms include a thick, yellowish discharge from the eye.), retinal damage, bone marrow suppression (A condition in which the cells of the bone marrow which produce red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets are inhibited), allergic reaction, fever, joint inflammation (arthritis), diarrhea, and kidney damage. Albon is not recommended to use on animals that are pregnant or nursing (this would also apply to gravid reptiles) and any animal known to have a liver or kidney disease.

Medical Quarantine During Treatment

Placing the Dragon in quarantine is essential to minimize the risk of spreading the parasites to other animals in the household. Adding the term 'medical', describes the conditions that need to be observed for the duration of the quarantine. The Dragon needs to be kept in a clean, sterile, and sanitized environment until recovery.
For these reasons, I recommend using Rubbermaid 60qt tubs (available at Wal-Mart for about $6) to use as a "Medical Tank", in place of the Dragon's usual cage. They are lightweight, seamless, and nonporous, which makes cleaning much easier, and also insures a more sanitized environment than a glass aquarium. (The silicon used to seal the glass can harbor the oocysts, as well as substrates, and cage furnishings)

Setting Up a Medical Tank

The most successful medical tank is a simple one. Use paper towels to line the bottom instead of a substrate. Replace the paper towels as soiled if possible, and wash the tubs with a 10% bleach to water solution at least once a day, and preferably with each paper towel change. Reinfection of Bearded Dragons is common, so environmental disinfection is important. You will also need to provide the tub with a UVb and basking light to elevate the air temp between 90° and 95° during the day. I also use a heating pad set on the lowest temperature setting at night, being sure to turn it off when the lights come on in the morning. These higher temperatures are desirable because it increases immune function, maximizes absorption of the meds, and also speeds up the clearance of the drugs from the body reducing a build up to toxic levels.
While the Dragon is in the medical tank under going treatments, it's best to keep only the paper towels in the tub, leaving the basking rocks, branches, and other furnishings out, as their porous texture will harbor bacteria and parasites, which can result in re-infecting your Dragon.

Assisted Feeding and Keeping Your Dragon Hydrated

Many times when treating various illnesses, Bearded Dragons suffer a loss of appetite and may become dehydrated. These are serious conditions that should not be overlooked. If force-feeding becomes necessary, there are several ways to accomplish this.
For smaller Dragons, the use of an eyedropper is perhaps the safest approach. This method relies upon the Dragon's reflex licking instinct to administer food or liquids by dripping the contents onto the Dragon's snout.

For larger Dragons that require larger amounts of food or liquids, a syringe with out the needle is preferred. I take the syringe and place it against the jaw on one side towards the back. With a light pressure, you can force the jaws open and proceed to plunge the contents into his mouth, being careful not to depress the plunger to quickly.
As a food source, I use Gerber Chicken Baby Food thinned with water or Ensure (which will help provide some fat and protein), and also help the mixture pass through the eyedropper or syringe with out clogging or sticking. Add a calcium D3 supplement once a day, and if these feeding last for more than one week, add a multi-vitamin supplement in place of the calcium once a week. Offer the food mix at least 3 times a day.

If your Dragon is not drinking on his own, you will need to follow the same steps as above for feeding. In place of the food mix, use KAO ELECTROLYTE (It comes in a powder form of single serving packets that mixes with water) to help replenish the right balance of liquid and electrolytes, like sodium and potassium. Pedialyte and Infalyte are identical in composition but they come in HUGE bottles and have short shelf lives compared with KAO's 3-year shelf life.
To help keep bad bacterial fauna from overgrowing the gut during treatment, it is often recommended to offer yogurt or Acidophilus. (The bacteria in yogurt is available in capsule form from health food stores. Just break open a capsule and mix in with the food).

Article contributed by Ronnie Buck of CricketFood.com