Full Version: planning on buying a corn snake???
ok i been doing some research on corn snakes and going 2 the pets shops 2 hold them and stuff. now i wanna buy one for sure:) I planned on buying a baby one so it can get use 2 me as i get use 2 it. i haver a 20 gallon tank, would that be ok 2 keep it in?? also i would like 2 know, wat is the best bedding or reptile carpet i should use? or should i use paper towels? i also have a hiding log 4 it, and a water dish. wat type of heating pad should i use? so if any one can give me some more info on corn snakes and wat else i will need 2 know i would really appreicate it. thanks
a 20 gallon tank is fine for a baby corn, for bedding aspen, paper towels, cypress mulch, are good(i personaly don't know about the reptile carpet), you need 2 hiding logs(one cool side one hot side)...water dish needs to be large enough for the snake to soak in but shallow, for heat pad i use a kitterz sauna pad controlled with a thermostat and a digital thermomoter with probe(you'll need one of these too) to tel me the temps of my tub.....your heat pad also needs to cover 1/3 of the bottom of your tank
if i forgot something someone else will probably tell you what i forgot
Dreamer
if i forgot something someone else will probably tell you what i forgot
Dreamer
ok now when i get one, should i leave it alone in the tank for about a week? and how do i tell if its male or female? do i need any type of lighting? i have a heat lamp that i used for my leo gecko, but should i use the lamp with a certain bulb? wat else would be good 4 me 2 use ? so my little buddy will be healthy?? also would it be better 2 go with a baby or a grown one? cause at the pet shop they have a 2.5 foot one there, that already had a owner b 4. im thinking bout a baby cause it sounds best. ??
A 20 gallon is large for a baby corn, so if you don't want to buy a 10 gallon, then just make sure you have plenty of hides and small enclosed places to feel safe. Atleast 3.
The only way to know for sure of the snake's sex is to have it probed by a breeder or vet.
A light is not neccessary.
I'd go with the hatchling. Chances are the larger one will take longer to become used to you.
The only way to know for sure of the snake's sex is to have it probed by a breeder or vet.
A light is not neccessary.
I'd go with the hatchling. Chances are the larger one will take longer to become used to you.
(CornyGuy)
I'd go with the hatchling. Chances are the larger one will take longer to become used to you.
Totally disagree. If the person has never had a corn, a sub-adult is a much better choice. Much more room for error---hatchlings are very delicate and don't do well with errors.
so wat the best one i should go with? a baby or a grown one? i think a baby cause it will bond 2 me easly then a grown one would. doe sthat sound right? also wat kind of temperture thing should i go with? and wat should i for b 4 i buy one? like twisted, flat bodies or...??
also would anyone know how often do i clean the tank? and wat about keepin my snake clean and free from mites or other bugs??
Well first I'd suggest you do a lot of reading before you buy a snake. No offense, but it's clear that you're not ready to bring home a snake.
A good starting point would be to buy Kathy Love's book, which can be found on her website, www.cornutopia.com. Otherwise, check her website for a caresheet, along with www.cornsnake.net. They are two of the top breeders in the country---take their advice/care sheets.
As far as which one to get, it's your choice. Let me just say something here....snakes do NOT bond with you. They tolerate you. Snakes do not have the capacity to show emotion or to 'bond' with their owners. So if you're expecting your snake to love you and want to come out all the time, I would reconsider. I have snakes that simply will not tolerate being handled. I've tried to take them out a few times a week over a period of a few months, but it's fairly obvious that they're not enjoying it when the entire time they are rattling their tale and musking you. Keep in mind that while it's rare, not all snakes appreciate being held, or you owning them. This isn't meant to scare you, it's just a fact that you need to consider. If you want a fluffy, cuddly pet, buy a cat.
Older snakes are generally less 'spastic' than younger ones. Many hatchlings flail around when held, and bite. Most adult corns have relaxed and don't do that. This varies by snake, of course.
Temperature can be controlled by a few different ways. One way is an under the tank heater, another would be a heat lamp. You need to look into both options and decide for yourself.
I have NO idea what you mean by "like twisted, flat bodies or...??". Again, this tells me that you have no idea what you're looking for in a cornsnake. You need to do a lot more research.
Tanks are cleaned weekly, at least spot cleaned. I normally do a full bedding change every 4-6 weeks, depending on a variety of factors. If a snake tips a waterdish, you're doing a full cleaning. This also depends on what bedding you are going to use. I personally use aspen, and would recommend you do the same.
Mites do not just appear in your tank. They are spread from other reptiles, bedding, etc. Do not buy a snake that is crawling with mites---they are a huge pain in the butt to deal with.
All this being said, I STRONGLY advise you to do a lot more research before you go ahead with this.
A good starting point would be to buy Kathy Love's book, which can be found on her website, www.cornutopia.com. Otherwise, check her website for a caresheet, along with www.cornsnake.net. They are two of the top breeders in the country---take their advice/care sheets.
As far as which one to get, it's your choice. Let me just say something here....snakes do NOT bond with you. They tolerate you. Snakes do not have the capacity to show emotion or to 'bond' with their owners. So if you're expecting your snake to love you and want to come out all the time, I would reconsider. I have snakes that simply will not tolerate being handled. I've tried to take them out a few times a week over a period of a few months, but it's fairly obvious that they're not enjoying it when the entire time they are rattling their tale and musking you. Keep in mind that while it's rare, not all snakes appreciate being held, or you owning them. This isn't meant to scare you, it's just a fact that you need to consider. If you want a fluffy, cuddly pet, buy a cat.
Older snakes are generally less 'spastic' than younger ones. Many hatchlings flail around when held, and bite. Most adult corns have relaxed and don't do that. This varies by snake, of course.
Temperature can be controlled by a few different ways. One way is an under the tank heater, another would be a heat lamp. You need to look into both options and decide for yourself.
I have NO idea what you mean by "like twisted, flat bodies or...??". Again, this tells me that you have no idea what you're looking for in a cornsnake. You need to do a lot more research.
Tanks are cleaned weekly, at least spot cleaned. I normally do a full bedding change every 4-6 weeks, depending on a variety of factors. If a snake tips a waterdish, you're doing a full cleaning. This also depends on what bedding you are going to use. I personally use aspen, and would recommend you do the same.
Mites do not just appear in your tank. They are spread from other reptiles, bedding, etc. Do not buy a snake that is crawling with mites---they are a huge pain in the butt to deal with.
All this being said, I STRONGLY advise you to do a lot more research before you go ahead with this.
I'm going to copy and paste my caresheets from cornsnakes.com. Most of this work is mine, but certain parts are directly from Kathy Love herself.
Husbandry/Basic Care FAQ:
Q: What substrates can I use, and which shouldn't I use?
A: Most recommend aspen, as do I. It is cheap, totally safe, and easy to find. Other perfectly acceptable forms of substrate include but are not limited to Reptibark, newspaper, newsprint, paper towels, Eco-earth (or similar substrates like bed-a-beast) and cypress mulch. You should not use cedar, pine, sand, gravel, or astroturf. Cedar and pine are toxic to small animals and the others are either irritating to the snake or harbor bacteria and are very difficult to clean.
*Note about substrate- If you are using any substrate that can adhere to the mice, you need to feed the snake outside of it's cage. Feeding inside the cage on substrate can lead to the snake ingesting the substrate and causing an impaction. Impactions will be discussed further in the Health Issues FAQ.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27121
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27261
Q: Do I need to supply extra heat to my snakes?
A: Maybe. It depends on where you live and what the temperatures are like wherever your snake is being held. More than likely, extra heat will be needed at some time during the year.
Q: Do I need to supply a temperature gradient for my snakes?
A: No, you do not. It is not necessary to supply a gradient for your snakes. However, would you enjoy being in a place where you could not control the temperature? Letting the snakes choose it's optimal temperature is best, if possible.
Q: What can I use for a cage?
A: There are a wide variety of choices. Most 'breeders' use some form of sterilite boxes/tubs, but glass aquariums are perfectly fine. Homemade cages are also fine, provided that wood is sealed and the cage is secure proof.
*A note on the cage being secure. Every single snake owner that has any decent amount of snakes has had snakes escape. And I do mean everyone, including breeders. Having a great secure cage is worthless if you do not take the time to make sure your cage is locked, shut, and tight. Snakes in general are escape experts and will get out of a cage if there is the slightest space/hole anywhere.
Q: How big does my cage need to be?
A: Most adult cornsnakes can be housed in 20 gallon long aquariums. All-Glass makes 'Critter Cages' that have a sliding lid with back latches that work great. If you choose to go the sterilite route, adults can be housed in 28qt sweater boxes and hatchlings through sub-adults in boxes ranging from 6qts to 12qts.
Q: What is a better source for extra heat, an under tank heater (UTH) or a heat lamp/light?
A: Again, it depends on your situation. If you live in a moderate climate, chances are you do not need much extra heat, so a light might do the job. If you live somewhere where it gets very cold, chances are you're better off with a UTH. Myself, being in Florida, I just use a red light as needed to keep temperatures in the range that I want.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24265
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10610
Q: What are good temperatures?
A: 75-80F for the 'cool' side, and 80-85F for the warm side. Try to avoid temperatures below 70F and above 90F.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26603
Q: Are stick on thermometers good to use?
A: NOOOO!!! Those measure ambient air (with poor accuracy) and that has nothing to do with what you need to know. Temperatures on the surface of the substrate are much more important than ambient air temperatures, or the temperature of the glass where the thermometer is stuck.
Q: What should I use for a thermometer then?
A: A digital one with a probe. These are available all over the place. I personally got mine from Walmart for about $7. Again, check the temperatures on the substrate, not up several inches--that accomplishes nothing.
Q: What about humidity?
A: Cornsnakes do not requite high humidity to thrive and will do quite well with average humidity. What's average, you say? 40-50% will do just fine.
Q: How do I measure the humidity in my cage?
A: You need to buy a hygrometer. They sell stick on dials at pet stores, or you can buy a combo humidity/thermometer from places like Walmart for around $15.
*Note- Low humidity can cause shedding problems, which will be discussed under "Health Issues FAQ".
Q: Do I need a water bowl?
A: Of course. Your snake needs to drink. Make sure you get a water bowl big enough so your snake can fully soak in it if need be, but not too big so that it has problems getting in and out.
Q: Does my snake need a hide?
A: Absolutely!!! In fact, it would be optimal for them to have two hides, one on the cool side and one on the warm side of the cage. These can be as elaborate as $15 cave hides, or as simple as half of a tissue box or a single serving cereal box.
Q: What can I put into my snake's cage for decoration?
A: Pretty much anything you want. Avoids things with foul plastic smells and sharp edges. Fake silk plants work very well, but can be difficult to clean. Half logs found at pet stores work great for hides and add a natural look to cages. Most pet stores also sell branches that you can use if you wish. You can also buy silk vines and use them in the same fashion as branches by affixing them to a glass cage with small suction cups. Remember, anything you find outside you must disenfect with either a bleach solution, baking in the oven on low temperatures, or both.
*Keep in mind that the more decor you put into a snakes cage, the more you will have to clean. Are you willing to take everything out once a month and scrub it all down with a bleach solution to disenfect it? Probably not. If you're prepared and willing to spend that amount of time cleaning, then by all means add decor, but if not, keep it simple. Most people with a sizeable collection will simply have substate, a water dish and a hide.
Q: How do I disinfect my cage and items inside the cage?
A: You can use a bleach solution (capful or two of bleach mixed with a gallon of water) and soaking very well afterwards, or by using Nolovsan, or it's generic counterpart. Nolovsan is a veterinary disenfectant that is perfectly safe for all reptiles.
Q: Can I house two snakes together in the same cage?
A: No! This is the eternal debate here on cornsnakes.com, and there is normally a post about this every week or two. There are literally hundreds of threads about this, and linked are a few of them. If you need an explination why, do a search. The top of the list is cannibalism, disease/parasite transmission, refusal to eat, and a variety of other things.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26675
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27177
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23636
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23436
FEEDING
Q: What does my snake eat?
A: Cornsnakes eat appropriately sized mice and rats. Please do not try to feed your cornsnake crickets or any other insect no matter what your pet store says.
Q: My hatchling is really small and there is no way it can eat a pinkie mouse, what do I do?
A: You'd be very surprised, but most all hatchlings can handle day old pinkies without a problem. Most owners greatly underestimate the size of prey their snake can handle.
Q: What are the size stages for mice?
A: Pinkie, fuzzy, crawler, hopper, sub-adult, adult. If you would like to see size comparisons and weight, please visit: www.rodentpro.com
Q: Oh no! My snake regurgitated, what do I do?!
A: Please see the Health Issues FAQ, located here:
Kathy Love's FAQ (www.cornutopia.com) :
Housing snakes together - my very, very long opinion
I see that this subject has been discussed here A LOT lately, with lots of opinions and experiences that have supported both sides of the question. A number of members have privately emailed to me and asked me to post my opinion over the past few weeks, so here it is, and very long winded it will be, lol! Sorry for the length, but it seems such an active subject that I want to say everything I have to say at one time.
I generally do not house babies or adults together myself, but might consider doing so under certain conditions. I have colony bred Sinaloan milks in the past with good luck. And I have kept partial litters of baby corns together until their first meal, since that is when the most problems, stress or cannibalism, are likely to start. I have had at least 2 occasions since 1985 when a baby corn did eat another, even though they had never fed on anything before. Both cases were bloodreds, but I don't know if that means anything.
I am going to post 2 relevant FAQs that I email to those who write asking for advice (I have written a number of them on commonly asked questions). They are long and are meant for those who have little experience and need help getting started. Those who are already experienced don't really need to read them, as they will already have heard enough to make up their own minds on whether the risk justifies the benefits. Some will agree with me, and some not. But they are my opinions based on my experiences. So here it is, for what it is worth:
FAQ - Housing Snakes Together:
Please DO NOT keep babies (or any newly obtained corns) together!
Although some people have done it successfully, many more have had a lot
of problems. If you have to keep some together, do it with the well-established corns that have been in your collection for a long time.
The babies are already under stress with new homes, travel, and just
generally growing up. Please don't add to the stress anymore than you
have to. Cannibalism is possible, although not likely. More likely
problems include: going off feed, regurge, passing disease, early /
difficult pregnancy, etc.
It is a much better idea to get a bunch of little plastic shoeboxes or
"critter keeper" type terrariums and stack them on top of, or next to,
each other. After you have had the snakes for AT LEAST 3 or 4 months
and have gotten to know them individually, you could try combining some
of the best feeding, best growing ones in groups of two per cage.(be
sure to separate while feeding, and for 1/2 hour afterwards) There will
always be differences in feeding habits, timidity, etc. Some animals
are more prone to stress than others. You won't know which ones at
first, but after a few months you will know. Be ready to separate them
at the first sign of one going off feed, regurging, behaving unusually,
etc. They may look happy all curled up together, but that doesn't mean
they aren't stressing out. Snakes are not really social animals and
generally only willingly spend time together during mating or
hibernation, although they may sometimes choose the same basking or
hiding spots when vying for the best places. In my opinion, optimum
site selection is what you are probably seeing when they are curled up
together, rather than friendship. However, once they have gotten very
used to a cage-mate over a long time, they probably grow to prefer that
situation, since any change is stressful. Just remember that they are
individuals and that each individual is different. Knowing your
particular animal is paramount to providing the best situation for it,
and that takes time and observation.
The reason I keep referring to babies is because that is what most
people buy from a breeder. But the same would be true of newly
acquired yearlings or adults - they would also be new and suffering
from the stress of travel and adjusting to a new home. Any new animals
should be quarantined and their habits observed for a 2 - 4 months
anyway. I would not suggest that you put two (or more) together unless
they have both been in your collection for at least a few months and are
approximately the same size.
If you follow these instructions, you will often be able to EVENTUALLY
keep 2 or 3 together once they are well acclimated. Just depends if you
get a shy one. The more you keep in one cage, the more likely
complications will occur (as mentioned above, going off feed, regurge,
passing disease, etc.)
Please feel free to call if I can answer any other questions for you.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
FAQ - Success in "going against the usual advice"
Although it is easier to be successful following the usual advice, such as keeping them separately and feeding frozen/thawed rodents, there are many who are successful doing the exact opposite. To those who are very careful and doing everything right while going against the norms - you can't argue with success! Even though it is more difficult to keep track of things with two or more together (and often, but not always, more stressful for the corns and can result in early pregnancy and other problems), it doesn't mean it can't be done. There are added precautions to be taken as well as added risks. It is not usually worth the added effort or additional slight risk for most people, but that is something that each person has to decide for themselves. The main problem is that it is usually beginners with new babies who want to try it - just asking for more problems than they might already have. I can tell you that even though I consider myself pretty experienced in corns, if I start working with a totally new species, I will follow the generally accepted advice with that species while gaining experience. Only when I feel I have some success with that species will I start to tinker with the accepted "recipe for success" that has already been established. On the other hand, nothing new would ever be learned if some people didn't experiment, keep records, and report their success and failures.
On the subject of risk, we do risky things every day and have to judge the risk vs. the benefits. The most dangerous thing IMHO is probably shipping them, although if done properly it is not terribly risky. In carefully controlled circumstances, I feel that housing together and feeding live rodents can be a lot less risky than shipping and other risky things we do (such as driving to work!). But please do not construe this as an invitation for beginners to throw all of their newly acquired corns together in a bin with a bunch of live rats!
Some experienced keepers offering advice get into the "never" or "always" do or don't this or that. But I go more for "usually" something works better than another thing . But each circumstance is different. Keepers who have a little experience and actually think about the likely consequences of what they are doing (and how to deal with them) can often successfully do things that beginners or "non-thinkers" will do haphazardly and unsuccessfully. Listen to all good advice, and then make your own informed decision based on your own circumstances and judgment.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
__________________
Kathy Love
Cornutopia.com
kathy@cornutopia.com
Care Sheets on Housing, Heating, and Feeding from Don Soderberg at South Mountain Reptiles (www.cornsnake.net) :
HOUSING
Corn snakes are resourceful escapists so be sure the cage you get has a secure and tight fitting lid. Snakes in general require fresh air, but too much ventilation can cool the cage unacceptably. If your only ventilation is on top of the cage, you should be using an under tank heater for your primary heater. For hatchling corn snakes a small enclosure with adequate ventilation will be suitable. Until they reach 24" in length a cage 12" by 8" will suffice. Remember, these neonate snakes can escape any cage with gaps or holes the size of their snout. When they are adults the cage length should be approximately 1/2 the length of the snake. A 15 or 20 gallon aquarium with a locking lid is adequate space for an adult corn. As a substrate for the cage remember the three "don'ts". CEDAR, ANY BARK, SAND and GRAVEL. These are either toxic to your snake or are not absorbent, therefore promoting the growth of bacteria. Folded newspaper while not aesthetically pleasing is sanitary, inexpensive and convenient. Be sure to put many layers on the bottom of the cage so as to create a barrier between snake and heat source if you're using an under tank heater. Aspen beddings are natural and absorbent substrates that most breeders and keepers use. Pine shavings are sometimes used, but I only recommend them for adult snakes. There is talk lately about the toxic properties of pine and fir. Especially when it gets in your pets drinking water. Avoid using BARK forms of pine and fir. The most toxic chemicals in those trees are concentrated in the bark and can harm your pets. You only need to remove the soiled portions of the beddings routinely and only have to completely change the contents periodically. Let your eyes and nose dictate the frequency of maintenance. Each cage should also contain a water dish that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. Your snake will soak in the water when the cage is too hot or sometimes to soften skin before shedding. The water is also approximately 15 degrees cooler than the surrounding air in the cage and will facilitate thermoregulation. The water should be changed at least twice a week or more if it gets soiled or cloudy. Tap water often contains chlorine and fluoride that can be harmful to your snake. It is recommended that you at least dechlorinate tap water or bottled water. Water softeners add too much sodium to the water. Snakes have poor long-range eyesight and therefore do not like to be in the open. A hide is advisable for the mental health of your snake. A piece of bark or an empty box of appropriate size will suffice. Most pet shops sell decorative plastic or ceramic hides that will enhance the looks of your vivarium, but be sure they are large enough that you can safely free them in case you want to remove them from their hide. In the wild, corn snakes climb for many reasons, but in captivity climbing is not necessary. In the wild, they climb to escape detection by predators and prey, to find prey and to cool or warm their bodies. If you use a branch in the cage, your snake will be able to get closer to the top so recheck any gaps around the lid and be sure the lid is weighted or locked down.
HEATING
Heat is the most important element in the success of keeping snakes alive and healthy. In the wild, they prefer daytime temperatures between 79 and 85 deg. F. Nighttime temperatures can fall to 70 deg. F. with no ill affects. I prefer to keep the temperatures the same in the cage day and night and as the temperatures in the house fall at night, the slight change will not adversely affect your snake. If you don't use a thermostat to control the temperature, I recommend that you have an under tank heater under one side of the tank. These are designed to be on all the time. If you supplement the heat with a light over the tank, put it over the heated side or slightly toward the center. Be sure there is one side of the vivarium that has no heat so the snake can cool off if necessary. The instinct for a snake to hide is often greater than their sense to be in the right temperature so be sure the hide is not in the hottest or coldest part of the enclosure. Observe all cautions on the label or box of the under tank heater and light to avoid the risk of fire. HOT ROCKS are dangerous as they concentrate the heat in one place and contact burns to your snake as a result can be deadly. Whatever you use, it is recommended that you have a thermometer in the cage near the bottom of the tank and on the inside. It is preferable to place the thermometer DIRECTLY ON the substrate in or near the warm-side hiding place. You don't need to know the cage temperature six inches above your snake or on the outside of the glass where your snake hopefully cannot go. Essentially, you are taking the snake's body temperature by monitoring the temperatures in or near the hide they frequent most. All snakes will benefit from fluorescent UV light, but it is not necessary for corns. Corn snakes are considered to be nocturnal and for thousands of years have not required direct sunlight to survive.
FEEDING
In captivity corn snakes should be fed captive bred rodents only. Wild lizards, birds and rodents can transfer parasites to your snake. If your snake refuses domestic rodents consult a professional to recommend temporary alternatives. Hatchling corns will eat one mouse pink (newborn mouse) once or twice a week. They will often want more, but feeding more than this can be dangerous to the health of your snake unless you have adequate temperatures and space for exercise. A rule of thumb regarding the size you feed is that the "lump" from the prey item should be visible for 12 to 24 hours after feeding. If it is not visible during this time, you may need to move up to the next size rodent. If the "lump" is still visible after several days, it might be advisable to reduce the size of the prey. Prey items that are too large can result in regurgitation as the rate of decomposition exceeds the rate of digestion and there isn't room for the swelling meal. It is advisable to feed prekilled or stunned rodents, as there is a slight possibility of damage from the prey during the kill. If you feed live prey, be sure not to leave the snake unattended. If the snake refuses the rodent for any reason, remove it and offer it on another day. If your snake unexpectedly refuses food, consult a professional for advice. Do not repeatedly offer what it does not want to eat as the snake may become conditioned to not want that prey item in the future and you may be wasting valuable time in correcting potential health problems. Corn snakes can fast for long periods, but only if they have to. I recommend that you establish a routine feeding schedule. You don't have to adhere to it strictly, but long periods of fasting are not recommended unless you are brumating your snake in preparation for breeding under proper temperature conditions.
______________________________________________________
Health Issues/Feeding Problems FAQ
FEEDING PROBLEMS
Q: My snake regurgitated! What do I do?
A: This is without a question the biggest problem that most people will face while owning their snake. I will give my opinion on this, but at the bottom of the page are FAQ's on this subject by Kathy Love---PLEASE read that also. First off you should try to figure out why the snake regurged it's meal. Was the food item too big? Not totally thawed? Improper temps? Check all of those things so you do not make that same mistake again. Wait between 8-10 days and feed an item smaller than what your snake is currently eating. For example, if your snake is on fuzzies and regurgiated, drop down and feed pinkies. You can also place a few small cuts in the skin to aid in digestion after a regurge, or all the time. If it keeps that down, great. I'd suggest for the next two feedings to keep with a smaller prey item before going back to the regular sized items. If the snake regurgitates it's next smaller meal right after the first regurgitation, then please skip down to the bottom and read Kathy's FAQ.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18251
Q: Help, my snake isn't eating!
A: Relax, and don't worry just yet. Double check your temperatures to make sure that they're not too low, or too high. Many people do not realize that high temperatures are just as big of a problem as temps that are too low. Extremes in either direction can create stress and make a snake not want to eat. If the temps are correct, make sure the food item is thoroughly thawed and warmed to the proper temps. Once you do that, try feeding in a smaller cage and putting a towel over the feeding cage and leaving the snake alone for at least a few more hours. If that does not work, you might consider feeding your snake a live mouse. Even though I feed live, there can be problems associated with this. It is perfectly fine to feed live pinkies and fuzzies, but I would encourage you to feed a pre-killed or stunned mouse that is actively walking around with it's eyes open. Anything past the fuzzy stage can and will bite. Better safe than sorry.
Q: How do I know when to move up to the next size mouse or rat?
A: Move up to the next sized prey item when you do not notice a visible 'lump' after 24 hours following a feeding. There should be a lump visible between 24-48 hours after any feeding. Also remember, feeding items that are over 1.5x the thickness of the snake can cause problems. Try not to feed any items that are larger than 1.5x the thickness of your snake.
Q: Is it normal for my male snake to stop eating in the Spring?
A: Absolutely. Love is in the air, and eating is not the first thing on their mind. It is very common for male snakes to go off feed for several weeks and even sometimes months during the mating season. This is especially true if you brumated your male.
Q: My adult female stopped eating, is this normal?
A: If she is gravid, it's quite normal. Most females will go off feed once they're gravid.
Q: I think my snake might have injested some substrate, what now?
A: Well, there's not much you can do besides from hoping that the item passes and the snake doesn't become impacted. If an impaction occurs, it's time to schedule a vet visit.
HEALTH ISSUES
Q: I think my snake might be starting to shed, but I'm not sure. How do I tell?
A: First, your snake will begin to appear lackluster and dull. The colors will start to fade and on most snakes they will have a waxy looking tint to them. Their belly checkers (provided they're black) will look milky and their eyes will blue. If their eyes are blue, that is called 'blue phase'. After the blue phase, their eyes and skin will clear up and they will shed within 3-7 days, or thereabouts.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26571
Q: Okay, my snake shed, but not all in one piece--what's wrong and how can I fix it?
A: This is one of the easiest problems to fix, so worry not. Bad sheds are caused by low humidity. So, you need to figure out what the humidity level is in your cage. You can either buy a dial like hygrometer from a pet store, or buy a combo humidity/temp guage from stores like Walmart. They are normally around $5 for the dial types, and $15 for the dual digital humidity/temp guages. Obviously digital is better, but both work. You are looking for humidity between 40-50%, give or take. Once you notice your snake start the shedding cycle, you can mist the cage once or twice a day to increase humidity or create a humid hide. Bigger water dishes also create more humidity. If you have a screen lid on a glass aquarium, you can place a towel of half the top to help keep some humidity in.
Q: My snake shed, but there is a piece of shed skin still stuck on the tail. Do I need to get this off, or can I just wait until after the next shed?
A: No, you need to get that off. Shed skin becomes tight and constricts where it is left after a shed. If the very tip of the tail does not shed properly and is not removed, it will constrict the flow of blood and kill the tip of the tail. You can either place your snake in a damp pillowcase for a few minutes, place your snake back into it's cage with substrate removed and replaced with paper towels or newspaper and a damp crumpled paper towel, or (and my suggestion) get a damp facecloth and let your snake 'crawl' through that until all of the skin comes off. This works very well for retained shed patches of skin that have not come off as well.
Q: My snake injured itself somehow in it's cage, what can I do?
A: If it's just a minor injury you can mix a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water and apply that to the area serveral times a day. Also, change the substrate to paper towels or newspaper to try and avoid possible infection and irritation from other substrate. If the problem is major then please seek a vet. You can also dab on some bactracin or neosporin.
Q: I see several small block dots moving on my snake--what is that?
A: Welcome to the wonderful world of snake mites. They are the most common parasite that you will encounter and one of the biggest pains to get rid of. I have personally used Sevin Dust without a problem, but some people recommend a diluted Nix treatement. Since I have no experience with that, I will just link some threads regarding the issue.
Kathy Love FAQ's
FAQ from Kathy Love on Regurgitation Treatment
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT - once a snake has regurged, especially twice or more, it is more likely to keep on regurging until it dies, unless something is changed about its care and feeding. It is very important NOT to let this continue. PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW VERY CAREFULLY. This is from my FAQ on regurges:
I suspect your problem is probably not bad mice, but about handling too soon, feeding too soon or too large of a meal, a stomach "bug", or improper temps. If you make these mistakes once, or even twice, it is not usually a problem if you FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. But remember, each time it regurges, the stomach acids are depleted, and the whole electrolyte balance is thrown off more and more each time, and it makes it MORE likely that it will continue to throw up until it dies. (those consequences are just my opinions - I do not know if science backs up my conclusions, but my experience certainly does!) That is why it is so important to NOT ALLOW another regurge.
The next month or two is crucial. DO NOT feed it for AT LEAST 8 days since the last regurge. NOT ANYTHING AT ALL! Then get a newborn frozen pinky and cut it in half (or cut off just the head) If she eats it, leave her alone for a whole week. (no handling). Repeat the partial pinkie feeding the following week. Then feed a whole newborn pinkie a week after that, if there has been no regurge. Leave alone for a whole week. If she regurges, wait a week and repeat 1/2 pinkie. If she keeps it down, wait a week and repeat whole pinkie. If she holds down a couple of meals, DO NOT rush back into larger meals and more handling. Treat this seriously. Go very slowly. After 3 successful meals, go to a newborn pink every 5 days. Go back to normal feedings only after 6 successful meals. Always wait to handle until after 3 or 4 days, but only AFTER 6 successful meals. No handling until then (causes stress, need to keep stress down). And NEVER feed again right after a regurge - ALWAYS wait AT LEAST 7 or 8 days, maybe even up to 10 days, and then only feed something that was about 1/2 the size (or less) of what she regurged..
Also, be sure that temps are not too warm or cool. Try to give an area of low to mid 80s on one side and 70s on the other. Too hot or cold will cause regurges.
Grapefruit seed extract can sometimes help if the snake has some sort of "stomach bug" (any microbial problem) as it is a natural remedy that is good against many kinds of pathogens, but not as strong as an antibiotic prescribed by a doctor. This product has been used in agriculture for many years and seems to be very safe, as long as you dilute it with enough water that the acidity does not burn the tissues. A vet has told me he feels that it may somewhat alter the pH of the animal and thus change the way medicines are absorbed. So if you use this product and then take the snake to a vet, mention the treatment so it can be taken into account if the vet decides to change the prescription because of it. It is best to mix it in a glass and taste it to make sure it is not so bitter that the snake refuses to drink it. I have used it on myself and so has my husband. I find it works better on stomach problems than for other symptoms (such as respiratory - I didn't have any luck treating colds or other respiratory problems).You can buy it at a local health food store or online. Please refer to the following website for more background info:
http://www.nutriteam.com/index2.html
I have also had success with a probiotic called Nutri Bac, a fine powder containing seven different microflora that should be inhabiting the gut of reptiles, but may be absent due to stress, disease, antibiotic treatments, etc. Using the powder as a supplement will sometimes allow the reptile to get back the natural balance of microbes in its digestive tract, and then its own immune system can take over. See my website for more details, or go here:
http://www.cornutopia.com/Corn%20Ut...information.htm
The number of days and amounts of food, etc, suggested above are not set in stone. Other people may have success with slightly different formulas, but this is what I found works for me and many of my customers. If this protocol does not work when carefully followed, it is likely that the snake has some severe problems. Your only hope is a QUALIFIED herp vet, who may or may not be able to save your pet.
Please follow my care sheet for the first month or so when starting with new acquisitions (posted on my website for the first month's care of new corns).. The first month is crucial in getting the baby established. It is worth a little extra "coddling" for the first month in order to have a trouble free pet for the next 10 or 15 years or more.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
CONTACT INFO:
CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
Captive-Bred Cornsnakes
WEB: http://www.CornUtopia.com
TEL: (239) 728 2390
Backup tel. # 239-691-4414 (Cell)
EMAIL: kathy@CornUtopia.com
__________________
FAQ - Babies won't eat...
There are lots of tricks for getting babies to eat - some are mentioned in the Manual. Feeding in a little deli cup is one of the first things to try. Some will only take live, or lizard scenting. Some want you to cut the frozen pink in half, then put both halves in the deli cup. Sometimes non feeders start feeding after bumping them around on the way to an expo. Some people have had luck dipping pinks in chicken broth, although it has not worked for me. Or try tease feeding as mentioned in my book. As a last resort, force feed and then brumate them until spring and see if that makes a difference.
I keep a couple of colonies of deer mice and dwarf hamsters to scent regular pinks. I just take out some of the dirtiest bedding and bury the pinks in it (loosely, so they don't suffocate) for about 10 minutes. I find that about 20 - 25% of non-feeders (where I already tried braining, heads, bodies, etc) will usually take mouse pinkies scented with another kind of rodent if you confine them overnight with it in a deli cup. Try rats, gerbils, etc, etc. You never know what might be their cue. If you don't have other rodent bedding, try your local petshop. Maybe I will start bagging it up and selling it at the shows, lol! Of course you can scent with lizard or tree frog for those who don't go for the rodent aromas
Try all of these things, starting with the easiest and least invasive, working your way up to the force feeding if needed.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
CONTACT INFO:
CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
Captive-Bred Cornsnakes
WEB: http://www.CornUtopia.com
TEL: (239) 728 2390
EMAIL: kathy@CornUtopia.com
Husbandry/Basic Care FAQ:
Q: What substrates can I use, and which shouldn't I use?
A: Most recommend aspen, as do I. It is cheap, totally safe, and easy to find. Other perfectly acceptable forms of substrate include but are not limited to Reptibark, newspaper, newsprint, paper towels, Eco-earth (or similar substrates like bed-a-beast) and cypress mulch. You should not use cedar, pine, sand, gravel, or astroturf. Cedar and pine are toxic to small animals and the others are either irritating to the snake or harbor bacteria and are very difficult to clean.
*Note about substrate- If you are using any substrate that can adhere to the mice, you need to feed the snake outside of it's cage. Feeding inside the cage on substrate can lead to the snake ingesting the substrate and causing an impaction. Impactions will be discussed further in the Health Issues FAQ.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27121
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27261
Q: Do I need to supply extra heat to my snakes?
A: Maybe. It depends on where you live and what the temperatures are like wherever your snake is being held. More than likely, extra heat will be needed at some time during the year.
Q: Do I need to supply a temperature gradient for my snakes?
A: No, you do not. It is not necessary to supply a gradient for your snakes. However, would you enjoy being in a place where you could not control the temperature? Letting the snakes choose it's optimal temperature is best, if possible.
Q: What can I use for a cage?
A: There are a wide variety of choices. Most 'breeders' use some form of sterilite boxes/tubs, but glass aquariums are perfectly fine. Homemade cages are also fine, provided that wood is sealed and the cage is secure proof.
*A note on the cage being secure. Every single snake owner that has any decent amount of snakes has had snakes escape. And I do mean everyone, including breeders. Having a great secure cage is worthless if you do not take the time to make sure your cage is locked, shut, and tight. Snakes in general are escape experts and will get out of a cage if there is the slightest space/hole anywhere.
Q: How big does my cage need to be?
A: Most adult cornsnakes can be housed in 20 gallon long aquariums. All-Glass makes 'Critter Cages' that have a sliding lid with back latches that work great. If you choose to go the sterilite route, adults can be housed in 28qt sweater boxes and hatchlings through sub-adults in boxes ranging from 6qts to 12qts.
Q: What is a better source for extra heat, an under tank heater (UTH) or a heat lamp/light?
A: Again, it depends on your situation. If you live in a moderate climate, chances are you do not need much extra heat, so a light might do the job. If you live somewhere where it gets very cold, chances are you're better off with a UTH. Myself, being in Florida, I just use a red light as needed to keep temperatures in the range that I want.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24265
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10610
Q: What are good temperatures?
A: 75-80F for the 'cool' side, and 80-85F for the warm side. Try to avoid temperatures below 70F and above 90F.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26603
Q: Are stick on thermometers good to use?
A: NOOOO!!! Those measure ambient air (with poor accuracy) and that has nothing to do with what you need to know. Temperatures on the surface of the substrate are much more important than ambient air temperatures, or the temperature of the glass where the thermometer is stuck.
Q: What should I use for a thermometer then?
A: A digital one with a probe. These are available all over the place. I personally got mine from Walmart for about $7. Again, check the temperatures on the substrate, not up several inches--that accomplishes nothing.
Q: What about humidity?
A: Cornsnakes do not requite high humidity to thrive and will do quite well with average humidity. What's average, you say? 40-50% will do just fine.
Q: How do I measure the humidity in my cage?
A: You need to buy a hygrometer. They sell stick on dials at pet stores, or you can buy a combo humidity/thermometer from places like Walmart for around $15.
*Note- Low humidity can cause shedding problems, which will be discussed under "Health Issues FAQ".
Q: Do I need a water bowl?
A: Of course. Your snake needs to drink. Make sure you get a water bowl big enough so your snake can fully soak in it if need be, but not too big so that it has problems getting in and out.
Q: Does my snake need a hide?
A: Absolutely!!! In fact, it would be optimal for them to have two hides, one on the cool side and one on the warm side of the cage. These can be as elaborate as $15 cave hides, or as simple as half of a tissue box or a single serving cereal box.
Q: What can I put into my snake's cage for decoration?
A: Pretty much anything you want. Avoids things with foul plastic smells and sharp edges. Fake silk plants work very well, but can be difficult to clean. Half logs found at pet stores work great for hides and add a natural look to cages. Most pet stores also sell branches that you can use if you wish. You can also buy silk vines and use them in the same fashion as branches by affixing them to a glass cage with small suction cups. Remember, anything you find outside you must disenfect with either a bleach solution, baking in the oven on low temperatures, or both.
*Keep in mind that the more decor you put into a snakes cage, the more you will have to clean. Are you willing to take everything out once a month and scrub it all down with a bleach solution to disenfect it? Probably not. If you're prepared and willing to spend that amount of time cleaning, then by all means add decor, but if not, keep it simple. Most people with a sizeable collection will simply have substate, a water dish and a hide.
Q: How do I disinfect my cage and items inside the cage?
A: You can use a bleach solution (capful or two of bleach mixed with a gallon of water) and soaking very well afterwards, or by using Nolovsan, or it's generic counterpart. Nolovsan is a veterinary disenfectant that is perfectly safe for all reptiles.
Q: Can I house two snakes together in the same cage?
A: No! This is the eternal debate here on cornsnakes.com, and there is normally a post about this every week or two. There are literally hundreds of threads about this, and linked are a few of them. If you need an explination why, do a search. The top of the list is cannibalism, disease/parasite transmission, refusal to eat, and a variety of other things.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26675
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27177
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23636
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23436
FEEDING
Q: What does my snake eat?
A: Cornsnakes eat appropriately sized mice and rats. Please do not try to feed your cornsnake crickets or any other insect no matter what your pet store says.
Q: My hatchling is really small and there is no way it can eat a pinkie mouse, what do I do?
A: You'd be very surprised, but most all hatchlings can handle day old pinkies without a problem. Most owners greatly underestimate the size of prey their snake can handle.
Q: What are the size stages for mice?
A: Pinkie, fuzzy, crawler, hopper, sub-adult, adult. If you would like to see size comparisons and weight, please visit: www.rodentpro.com
Q: Oh no! My snake regurgitated, what do I do?!
A: Please see the Health Issues FAQ, located here:
Kathy Love's FAQ (www.cornutopia.com) :
Housing snakes together - my very, very long opinion
I see that this subject has been discussed here A LOT lately, with lots of opinions and experiences that have supported both sides of the question. A number of members have privately emailed to me and asked me to post my opinion over the past few weeks, so here it is, and very long winded it will be, lol! Sorry for the length, but it seems such an active subject that I want to say everything I have to say at one time.
I generally do not house babies or adults together myself, but might consider doing so under certain conditions. I have colony bred Sinaloan milks in the past with good luck. And I have kept partial litters of baby corns together until their first meal, since that is when the most problems, stress or cannibalism, are likely to start. I have had at least 2 occasions since 1985 when a baby corn did eat another, even though they had never fed on anything before. Both cases were bloodreds, but I don't know if that means anything.
I am going to post 2 relevant FAQs that I email to those who write asking for advice (I have written a number of them on commonly asked questions). They are long and are meant for those who have little experience and need help getting started. Those who are already experienced don't really need to read them, as they will already have heard enough to make up their own minds on whether the risk justifies the benefits. Some will agree with me, and some not. But they are my opinions based on my experiences. So here it is, for what it is worth:
FAQ - Housing Snakes Together:
Please DO NOT keep babies (or any newly obtained corns) together!
Although some people have done it successfully, many more have had a lot
of problems. If you have to keep some together, do it with the well-established corns that have been in your collection for a long time.
The babies are already under stress with new homes, travel, and just
generally growing up. Please don't add to the stress anymore than you
have to. Cannibalism is possible, although not likely. More likely
problems include: going off feed, regurge, passing disease, early /
difficult pregnancy, etc.
It is a much better idea to get a bunch of little plastic shoeboxes or
"critter keeper" type terrariums and stack them on top of, or next to,
each other. After you have had the snakes for AT LEAST 3 or 4 months
and have gotten to know them individually, you could try combining some
of the best feeding, best growing ones in groups of two per cage.(be
sure to separate while feeding, and for 1/2 hour afterwards) There will
always be differences in feeding habits, timidity, etc. Some animals
are more prone to stress than others. You won't know which ones at
first, but after a few months you will know. Be ready to separate them
at the first sign of one going off feed, regurging, behaving unusually,
etc. They may look happy all curled up together, but that doesn't mean
they aren't stressing out. Snakes are not really social animals and
generally only willingly spend time together during mating or
hibernation, although they may sometimes choose the same basking or
hiding spots when vying for the best places. In my opinion, optimum
site selection is what you are probably seeing when they are curled up
together, rather than friendship. However, once they have gotten very
used to a cage-mate over a long time, they probably grow to prefer that
situation, since any change is stressful. Just remember that they are
individuals and that each individual is different. Knowing your
particular animal is paramount to providing the best situation for it,
and that takes time and observation.
The reason I keep referring to babies is because that is what most
people buy from a breeder. But the same would be true of newly
acquired yearlings or adults - they would also be new and suffering
from the stress of travel and adjusting to a new home. Any new animals
should be quarantined and their habits observed for a 2 - 4 months
anyway. I would not suggest that you put two (or more) together unless
they have both been in your collection for at least a few months and are
approximately the same size.
If you follow these instructions, you will often be able to EVENTUALLY
keep 2 or 3 together once they are well acclimated. Just depends if you
get a shy one. The more you keep in one cage, the more likely
complications will occur (as mentioned above, going off feed, regurge,
passing disease, etc.)
Please feel free to call if I can answer any other questions for you.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
FAQ - Success in "going against the usual advice"
Although it is easier to be successful following the usual advice, such as keeping them separately and feeding frozen/thawed rodents, there are many who are successful doing the exact opposite. To those who are very careful and doing everything right while going against the norms - you can't argue with success! Even though it is more difficult to keep track of things with two or more together (and often, but not always, more stressful for the corns and can result in early pregnancy and other problems), it doesn't mean it can't be done. There are added precautions to be taken as well as added risks. It is not usually worth the added effort or additional slight risk for most people, but that is something that each person has to decide for themselves. The main problem is that it is usually beginners with new babies who want to try it - just asking for more problems than they might already have. I can tell you that even though I consider myself pretty experienced in corns, if I start working with a totally new species, I will follow the generally accepted advice with that species while gaining experience. Only when I feel I have some success with that species will I start to tinker with the accepted "recipe for success" that has already been established. On the other hand, nothing new would ever be learned if some people didn't experiment, keep records, and report their success and failures.
On the subject of risk, we do risky things every day and have to judge the risk vs. the benefits. The most dangerous thing IMHO is probably shipping them, although if done properly it is not terribly risky. In carefully controlled circumstances, I feel that housing together and feeding live rodents can be a lot less risky than shipping and other risky things we do (such as driving to work!). But please do not construe this as an invitation for beginners to throw all of their newly acquired corns together in a bin with a bunch of live rats!
Some experienced keepers offering advice get into the "never" or "always" do or don't this or that. But I go more for "usually" something works better than another thing . But each circumstance is different. Keepers who have a little experience and actually think about the likely consequences of what they are doing (and how to deal with them) can often successfully do things that beginners or "non-thinkers" will do haphazardly and unsuccessfully. Listen to all good advice, and then make your own informed decision based on your own circumstances and judgment.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
__________________
Kathy Love
Cornutopia.com
kathy@cornutopia.com
Care Sheets on Housing, Heating, and Feeding from Don Soderberg at South Mountain Reptiles (www.cornsnake.net) :
HOUSING
Corn snakes are resourceful escapists so be sure the cage you get has a secure and tight fitting lid. Snakes in general require fresh air, but too much ventilation can cool the cage unacceptably. If your only ventilation is on top of the cage, you should be using an under tank heater for your primary heater. For hatchling corn snakes a small enclosure with adequate ventilation will be suitable. Until they reach 24" in length a cage 12" by 8" will suffice. Remember, these neonate snakes can escape any cage with gaps or holes the size of their snout. When they are adults the cage length should be approximately 1/2 the length of the snake. A 15 or 20 gallon aquarium with a locking lid is adequate space for an adult corn. As a substrate for the cage remember the three "don'ts". CEDAR, ANY BARK, SAND and GRAVEL. These are either toxic to your snake or are not absorbent, therefore promoting the growth of bacteria. Folded newspaper while not aesthetically pleasing is sanitary, inexpensive and convenient. Be sure to put many layers on the bottom of the cage so as to create a barrier between snake and heat source if you're using an under tank heater. Aspen beddings are natural and absorbent substrates that most breeders and keepers use. Pine shavings are sometimes used, but I only recommend them for adult snakes. There is talk lately about the toxic properties of pine and fir. Especially when it gets in your pets drinking water. Avoid using BARK forms of pine and fir. The most toxic chemicals in those trees are concentrated in the bark and can harm your pets. You only need to remove the soiled portions of the beddings routinely and only have to completely change the contents periodically. Let your eyes and nose dictate the frequency of maintenance. Each cage should also contain a water dish that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. Your snake will soak in the water when the cage is too hot or sometimes to soften skin before shedding. The water is also approximately 15 degrees cooler than the surrounding air in the cage and will facilitate thermoregulation. The water should be changed at least twice a week or more if it gets soiled or cloudy. Tap water often contains chlorine and fluoride that can be harmful to your snake. It is recommended that you at least dechlorinate tap water or bottled water. Water softeners add too much sodium to the water. Snakes have poor long-range eyesight and therefore do not like to be in the open. A hide is advisable for the mental health of your snake. A piece of bark or an empty box of appropriate size will suffice. Most pet shops sell decorative plastic or ceramic hides that will enhance the looks of your vivarium, but be sure they are large enough that you can safely free them in case you want to remove them from their hide. In the wild, corn snakes climb for many reasons, but in captivity climbing is not necessary. In the wild, they climb to escape detection by predators and prey, to find prey and to cool or warm their bodies. If you use a branch in the cage, your snake will be able to get closer to the top so recheck any gaps around the lid and be sure the lid is weighted or locked down.
HEATING
Heat is the most important element in the success of keeping snakes alive and healthy. In the wild, they prefer daytime temperatures between 79 and 85 deg. F. Nighttime temperatures can fall to 70 deg. F. with no ill affects. I prefer to keep the temperatures the same in the cage day and night and as the temperatures in the house fall at night, the slight change will not adversely affect your snake. If you don't use a thermostat to control the temperature, I recommend that you have an under tank heater under one side of the tank. These are designed to be on all the time. If you supplement the heat with a light over the tank, put it over the heated side or slightly toward the center. Be sure there is one side of the vivarium that has no heat so the snake can cool off if necessary. The instinct for a snake to hide is often greater than their sense to be in the right temperature so be sure the hide is not in the hottest or coldest part of the enclosure. Observe all cautions on the label or box of the under tank heater and light to avoid the risk of fire. HOT ROCKS are dangerous as they concentrate the heat in one place and contact burns to your snake as a result can be deadly. Whatever you use, it is recommended that you have a thermometer in the cage near the bottom of the tank and on the inside. It is preferable to place the thermometer DIRECTLY ON the substrate in or near the warm-side hiding place. You don't need to know the cage temperature six inches above your snake or on the outside of the glass where your snake hopefully cannot go. Essentially, you are taking the snake's body temperature by monitoring the temperatures in or near the hide they frequent most. All snakes will benefit from fluorescent UV light, but it is not necessary for corns. Corn snakes are considered to be nocturnal and for thousands of years have not required direct sunlight to survive.
FEEDING
In captivity corn snakes should be fed captive bred rodents only. Wild lizards, birds and rodents can transfer parasites to your snake. If your snake refuses domestic rodents consult a professional to recommend temporary alternatives. Hatchling corns will eat one mouse pink (newborn mouse) once or twice a week. They will often want more, but feeding more than this can be dangerous to the health of your snake unless you have adequate temperatures and space for exercise. A rule of thumb regarding the size you feed is that the "lump" from the prey item should be visible for 12 to 24 hours after feeding. If it is not visible during this time, you may need to move up to the next size rodent. If the "lump" is still visible after several days, it might be advisable to reduce the size of the prey. Prey items that are too large can result in regurgitation as the rate of decomposition exceeds the rate of digestion and there isn't room for the swelling meal. It is advisable to feed prekilled or stunned rodents, as there is a slight possibility of damage from the prey during the kill. If you feed live prey, be sure not to leave the snake unattended. If the snake refuses the rodent for any reason, remove it and offer it on another day. If your snake unexpectedly refuses food, consult a professional for advice. Do not repeatedly offer what it does not want to eat as the snake may become conditioned to not want that prey item in the future and you may be wasting valuable time in correcting potential health problems. Corn snakes can fast for long periods, but only if they have to. I recommend that you establish a routine feeding schedule. You don't have to adhere to it strictly, but long periods of fasting are not recommended unless you are brumating your snake in preparation for breeding under proper temperature conditions.
______________________________________________________
Health Issues/Feeding Problems FAQ
FEEDING PROBLEMS
Q: My snake regurgitated! What do I do?
A: This is without a question the biggest problem that most people will face while owning their snake. I will give my opinion on this, but at the bottom of the page are FAQ's on this subject by Kathy Love---PLEASE read that also. First off you should try to figure out why the snake regurged it's meal. Was the food item too big? Not totally thawed? Improper temps? Check all of those things so you do not make that same mistake again. Wait between 8-10 days and feed an item smaller than what your snake is currently eating. For example, if your snake is on fuzzies and regurgiated, drop down and feed pinkies. You can also place a few small cuts in the skin to aid in digestion after a regurge, or all the time. If it keeps that down, great. I'd suggest for the next two feedings to keep with a smaller prey item before going back to the regular sized items. If the snake regurgitates it's next smaller meal right after the first regurgitation, then please skip down to the bottom and read Kathy's FAQ.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18251
Q: Help, my snake isn't eating!
A: Relax, and don't worry just yet. Double check your temperatures to make sure that they're not too low, or too high. Many people do not realize that high temperatures are just as big of a problem as temps that are too low. Extremes in either direction can create stress and make a snake not want to eat. If the temps are correct, make sure the food item is thoroughly thawed and warmed to the proper temps. Once you do that, try feeding in a smaller cage and putting a towel over the feeding cage and leaving the snake alone for at least a few more hours. If that does not work, you might consider feeding your snake a live mouse. Even though I feed live, there can be problems associated with this. It is perfectly fine to feed live pinkies and fuzzies, but I would encourage you to feed a pre-killed or stunned mouse that is actively walking around with it's eyes open. Anything past the fuzzy stage can and will bite. Better safe than sorry.
Q: How do I know when to move up to the next size mouse or rat?
A: Move up to the next sized prey item when you do not notice a visible 'lump' after 24 hours following a feeding. There should be a lump visible between 24-48 hours after any feeding. Also remember, feeding items that are over 1.5x the thickness of the snake can cause problems. Try not to feed any items that are larger than 1.5x the thickness of your snake.
Q: Is it normal for my male snake to stop eating in the Spring?
A: Absolutely. Love is in the air, and eating is not the first thing on their mind. It is very common for male snakes to go off feed for several weeks and even sometimes months during the mating season. This is especially true if you brumated your male.
Q: My adult female stopped eating, is this normal?
A: If she is gravid, it's quite normal. Most females will go off feed once they're gravid.
Q: I think my snake might have injested some substrate, what now?
A: Well, there's not much you can do besides from hoping that the item passes and the snake doesn't become impacted. If an impaction occurs, it's time to schedule a vet visit.
HEALTH ISSUES
Q: I think my snake might be starting to shed, but I'm not sure. How do I tell?
A: First, your snake will begin to appear lackluster and dull. The colors will start to fade and on most snakes they will have a waxy looking tint to them. Their belly checkers (provided they're black) will look milky and their eyes will blue. If their eyes are blue, that is called 'blue phase'. After the blue phase, their eyes and skin will clear up and they will shed within 3-7 days, or thereabouts.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26571
Q: Okay, my snake shed, but not all in one piece--what's wrong and how can I fix it?
A: This is one of the easiest problems to fix, so worry not. Bad sheds are caused by low humidity. So, you need to figure out what the humidity level is in your cage. You can either buy a dial like hygrometer from a pet store, or buy a combo humidity/temp guage from stores like Walmart. They are normally around $5 for the dial types, and $15 for the dual digital humidity/temp guages. Obviously digital is better, but both work. You are looking for humidity between 40-50%, give or take. Once you notice your snake start the shedding cycle, you can mist the cage once or twice a day to increase humidity or create a humid hide. Bigger water dishes also create more humidity. If you have a screen lid on a glass aquarium, you can place a towel of half the top to help keep some humidity in.
Q: My snake shed, but there is a piece of shed skin still stuck on the tail. Do I need to get this off, or can I just wait until after the next shed?
A: No, you need to get that off. Shed skin becomes tight and constricts where it is left after a shed. If the very tip of the tail does not shed properly and is not removed, it will constrict the flow of blood and kill the tip of the tail. You can either place your snake in a damp pillowcase for a few minutes, place your snake back into it's cage with substrate removed and replaced with paper towels or newspaper and a damp crumpled paper towel, or (and my suggestion) get a damp facecloth and let your snake 'crawl' through that until all of the skin comes off. This works very well for retained shed patches of skin that have not come off as well.
Q: My snake injured itself somehow in it's cage, what can I do?
A: If it's just a minor injury you can mix a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water and apply that to the area serveral times a day. Also, change the substrate to paper towels or newspaper to try and avoid possible infection and irritation from other substrate. If the problem is major then please seek a vet. You can also dab on some bactracin or neosporin.
Q: I see several small block dots moving on my snake--what is that?
A: Welcome to the wonderful world of snake mites. They are the most common parasite that you will encounter and one of the biggest pains to get rid of. I have personally used Sevin Dust without a problem, but some people recommend a diluted Nix treatement. Since I have no experience with that, I will just link some threads regarding the issue.
Kathy Love FAQ's
FAQ from Kathy Love on Regurgitation Treatment
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT - once a snake has regurged, especially twice or more, it is more likely to keep on regurging until it dies, unless something is changed about its care and feeding. It is very important NOT to let this continue. PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW VERY CAREFULLY. This is from my FAQ on regurges:
I suspect your problem is probably not bad mice, but about handling too soon, feeding too soon or too large of a meal, a stomach "bug", or improper temps. If you make these mistakes once, or even twice, it is not usually a problem if you FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. But remember, each time it regurges, the stomach acids are depleted, and the whole electrolyte balance is thrown off more and more each time, and it makes it MORE likely that it will continue to throw up until it dies. (those consequences are just my opinions - I do not know if science backs up my conclusions, but my experience certainly does!) That is why it is so important to NOT ALLOW another regurge.
The next month or two is crucial. DO NOT feed it for AT LEAST 8 days since the last regurge. NOT ANYTHING AT ALL! Then get a newborn frozen pinky and cut it in half (or cut off just the head) If she eats it, leave her alone for a whole week. (no handling). Repeat the partial pinkie feeding the following week. Then feed a whole newborn pinkie a week after that, if there has been no regurge. Leave alone for a whole week. If she regurges, wait a week and repeat 1/2 pinkie. If she keeps it down, wait a week and repeat whole pinkie. If she holds down a couple of meals, DO NOT rush back into larger meals and more handling. Treat this seriously. Go very slowly. After 3 successful meals, go to a newborn pink every 5 days. Go back to normal feedings only after 6 successful meals. Always wait to handle until after 3 or 4 days, but only AFTER 6 successful meals. No handling until then (causes stress, need to keep stress down). And NEVER feed again right after a regurge - ALWAYS wait AT LEAST 7 or 8 days, maybe even up to 10 days, and then only feed something that was about 1/2 the size (or less) of what she regurged..
Also, be sure that temps are not too warm or cool. Try to give an area of low to mid 80s on one side and 70s on the other. Too hot or cold will cause regurges.
Grapefruit seed extract can sometimes help if the snake has some sort of "stomach bug" (any microbial problem) as it is a natural remedy that is good against many kinds of pathogens, but not as strong as an antibiotic prescribed by a doctor. This product has been used in agriculture for many years and seems to be very safe, as long as you dilute it with enough water that the acidity does not burn the tissues. A vet has told me he feels that it may somewhat alter the pH of the animal and thus change the way medicines are absorbed. So if you use this product and then take the snake to a vet, mention the treatment so it can be taken into account if the vet decides to change the prescription because of it. It is best to mix it in a glass and taste it to make sure it is not so bitter that the snake refuses to drink it. I have used it on myself and so has my husband. I find it works better on stomach problems than for other symptoms (such as respiratory - I didn't have any luck treating colds or other respiratory problems).You can buy it at a local health food store or online. Please refer to the following website for more background info:
http://www.nutriteam.com/index2.html
I have also had success with a probiotic called Nutri Bac, a fine powder containing seven different microflora that should be inhabiting the gut of reptiles, but may be absent due to stress, disease, antibiotic treatments, etc. Using the powder as a supplement will sometimes allow the reptile to get back the natural balance of microbes in its digestive tract, and then its own immune system can take over. See my website for more details, or go here:
http://www.cornutopia.com/Corn%20Ut...information.htm
The number of days and amounts of food, etc, suggested above are not set in stone. Other people may have success with slightly different formulas, but this is what I found works for me and many of my customers. If this protocol does not work when carefully followed, it is likely that the snake has some severe problems. Your only hope is a QUALIFIED herp vet, who may or may not be able to save your pet.
Please follow my care sheet for the first month or so when starting with new acquisitions (posted on my website for the first month's care of new corns).. The first month is crucial in getting the baby established. It is worth a little extra "coddling" for the first month in order to have a trouble free pet for the next 10 or 15 years or more.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
CONTACT INFO:
CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
Captive-Bred Cornsnakes
WEB: http://www.CornUtopia.com
TEL: (239) 728 2390
Backup tel. # 239-691-4414 (Cell)
EMAIL: kathy@CornUtopia.com
__________________
FAQ - Babies won't eat...
There are lots of tricks for getting babies to eat - some are mentioned in the Manual. Feeding in a little deli cup is one of the first things to try. Some will only take live, or lizard scenting. Some want you to cut the frozen pink in half, then put both halves in the deli cup. Sometimes non feeders start feeding after bumping them around on the way to an expo. Some people have had luck dipping pinks in chicken broth, although it has not worked for me. Or try tease feeding as mentioned in my book. As a last resort, force feed and then brumate them until spring and see if that makes a difference.
I keep a couple of colonies of deer mice and dwarf hamsters to scent regular pinks. I just take out some of the dirtiest bedding and bury the pinks in it (loosely, so they don't suffocate) for about 10 minutes. I find that about 20 - 25% of non-feeders (where I already tried braining, heads, bodies, etc) will usually take mouse pinkies scented with another kind of rodent if you confine them overnight with it in a deli cup. Try rats, gerbils, etc, etc. You never know what might be their cue. If you don't have other rodent bedding, try your local petshop. Maybe I will start bagging it up and selling it at the shows, lol! Of course you can scent with lizard or tree frog for those who don't go for the rodent aromas
Try all of these things, starting with the easiest and least invasive, working your way up to the force feeding if needed.
Good luck!
Kathy Love
CONTACT INFO:
CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
Captive-Bred Cornsnakes
WEB: http://www.CornUtopia.com
TEL: (239) 728 2390
EMAIL: kathy@CornUtopia.com
calas=hero.
EXCELLENT reading stuff Joe!
As a person in the "research" stage this is great information! Thanks you VERY much.
As a person in the "research" stage this is great information! Thanks you VERY much.
thanks for all ur respones and info:) I have been doin a lot of research on corn snakes and housing them, along with feeding and caring for them.all the information is very helpfull.i just wanted 2 know anything else i should look out for about corn snakes. i go 2 the pet shop and hold them and chex them out for any damage on them and everything. i found a ghost corn that was really healthy and active. how much do they usually go for? it was $80 bucks for a ghost and $40 for a normal corn. that seems way 2 much for a ghost , even $40 for just a normal corn. but so far i been doin a lot of research day and night on corns, and my tank setup is just bout done:) i just wanna be extra carefull when it comes 2 buying it and making sure im doin everything right.
You are always going to pay inflated prices at pet stores, it's just a fact of life. They have to make a profit and charge a percentage increase over what they paid from the breeder.
That being said, $80 for a ghost is highway robbery. From a breeder, you could probably buy 3 ghosts for that price. Then again, if you go that route, you need to fact in shipping, which is expensive. Depending on where you live, you might have a reptile expo near you. That would be my suggestion and you get to see the snakes before you make a purchase, and they are much cheaper than a pet store.
$40 for a normal is absurd as well. I wouldn't pay more than $10-$15 for a normal with no hets.
That being said, $80 for a ghost is highway robbery. From a breeder, you could probably buy 3 ghosts for that price. Then again, if you go that route, you need to fact in shipping, which is expensive. Depending on where you live, you might have a reptile expo near you. That would be my suggestion and you get to see the snakes before you make a purchase, and they are much cheaper than a pet store.
$40 for a normal is absurd as well. I wouldn't pay more than $10-$15 for a normal with no hets.
(Geckos-R-Cool)
EXCELLENT reading stuff Joe!
As a person in the "research" stage this is great information! Thanks you VERY much.
As a person in the "research" stage this is great information! Thanks you VERY much.
Thank you for being the only person in 86 posts I've made on this site to actually get my name correct.
ok well where can i find a breeder? im in pasco county fl. so if any one knows of reptile shows goin on please let me know soon as possible:) cause all i know of is all the pet stores around my area. also is there a difference on buying a male or female? like will one be more active or calmer??
does any one think they can post some pics of some tank setups? i have a 20 gallon with 2 hides, water dish. and paper towels as bedding with the metal screen lid etc...
You're by Tampa, and there's a few shows there every year. There's also a show coming up soon in Orlando. Aside from that, you've got numerous breeders in the Tampa area that will have snakes pretty soon.
Do you have access to a car? I'm not sure how old you are, so I figured I'd ask.
Do you have access to a car? I'm not sure how old you are, so I figured I'd ask.
Yeah definitely. Being in Florida, you live in the same state as Kathy Love. Lucky!
How do you misspell "Joe"? Or are you referring to how people call you by your forum nickname?
Definitely. I was in my local pet store yesterday, and though I live in Canada, they had a ghost corn for $150. Whoaaaa. Their Tawain Beauty was cheaper for some reason. But it is insane. Never buy from a pet store.
Thank you for being the only person in 86 posts I've made on this site to actually get my name correct.
How do you misspell "Joe"?
Or are you referring to how people call you by your forum nickname?
You are always going to pay inflated prices at pet stores, it's just a fact of life. They have to make a profit and charge a percentage increase over what they paid from the breeder.
That being said, $80 for a ghost is highway robbery. From a breeder, you could probably buy 3 ghosts for that price. Then again, if you go that route, you need to fact in shipping, which is expensive. Depending on where you live, you might have a reptile expo near you. That would be my suggestion and you get to see the snakes before you make a purchase, and they are much cheaper than a pet store.
$40 for a normal is absurd as well. I wouldn't pay more than $10-$15 for a normal with no hets.
That being said, $80 for a ghost is highway robbery. From a breeder, you could probably buy 3 ghosts for that price. Then again, if you go that route, you need to fact in shipping, which is expensive. Depending on where you live, you might have a reptile expo near you. That would be my suggestion and you get to see the snakes before you make a purchase, and they are much cheaper than a pet store.
$40 for a normal is absurd as well. I wouldn't pay more than $10-$15 for a normal with no hets.
Definitely. I was in my local pet store yesterday, and though I live in Canada, they had a ghost corn for $150. Whoaaaa. Their Tawain Beauty was cheaper for some reason. But it is insane. Never buy from a pet store.
(Ash19)
How do you misspell "Joe"? Or are you referring to how people call you by your forum nickname?
Or are you referring to how people call you by your forum nickname?Exactly, my first name is Joe, not Calas.
Yeah but I don't think many people will know your name (even though it's in your siggy, ppl don't always see it) So they call you by your nickname. That's the only reason I can think of. That and maybe some think calling you by your real name is too personal? That's how I see things anyway. I prefer ppl to call me by my real name so I put it as my forum nickname.
yeah I heard of a reptile show down at the fairgrounds in tampa on sept 30 and the oct 1. so my gurl and I are gonna drive there and see wat I can find. does anyone know wat breeders are the best 2 go with? and wat are the price ranges for ghost and normal corns? also would it be ok if i housed 2 corns? or just one for now??
Do not house two corns together. That's just asking for a whole host of problems.
As far as who to look at, here's a website for you: www.lwreptiles.com
I STRONGLY recommend Gino as a breeder to buy from. A lot of my snakes are from him---you won't find healthier, cheaper snakes anywhere.
As far as who to look at, here's a website for you: www.lwreptiles.com
I STRONGLY recommend Gino as a breeder to buy from. A lot of my snakes are from him---you won't find healthier, cheaper snakes anywhere.
ok im definetly goin 2 the tampa reptile show, and i have a few questions on it. how much does it cost 2 get in? wat bout parking? is there a fee? do u have 2 buy tickets ahead of time? or can u just go there and walk in??
I have no idea, I've never been. Email Gino and talk to him about it. Tell him Joe sent you.
joe-
sorry if I "offended" you. I didnt think it would be a big deal to call you by your forum name.
sorry if I "offended" you. I didnt think it would be a big deal to call you by your forum name.
Freakin pet stores making me think I could feed my snake crickets...luckily I found out when I got home after I got him and I could stop wondering why he wasn't eating right away. Does anyone know why this is such a common misconception? I guess because they're so small?
(Bodie)
joe-
sorry if I "offended" you. I didnt think it would be a big deal to call you by your forum name.
sorry if I "offended" you. I didnt think it would be a big deal to call you by your forum name.
Cute southern girls can call me whatever they want!
(cosmosnake)
Freakin pet stores making me think I could feed my snake crickets...luckily I found out when I got home after I got him and I could stop wondering why he wasn't eating right away. Does anyone know why this is such a common misconception? I guess because they're so small?
Probably. I see it around here occasionally and I don't even bother to say anything. Unfortunately with people like that, no matter what they're going to continue doing things wrong.
(kustompup93)
so wat the best one i should go with? a baby or a grown one? i think a baby cause it will bond 2 me easly then a grown one would. doe sthat sound right? also wat kind of temperture thing should i go with? and wat should i for b 4 i buy one? like twisted, flat bodies or...??
just so you know snakes dont really bond to people at all (except ive heard that burmese pythons have the ability to tell people apart and seem to like some people more then others. but only burms)
so you dont have to worry about that
they do however need to feel that they can trust you
so if there is an available adult thats used to handling and isnt snappy then id go for it over the baby
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.