(mythdragonlover)
Are corn snakes solitary, or could/should they be housed together with how corns?
As for feeding, generally how much does a pinkie, and other foods cost? Could their food be stored for a while (in the feezer), or does one have to buy a pinkie and feed it to their snake right away?
Do these guys hibernate or go through any type of dorment state?
Any suggestiongs on good breeders (that can be reached through the internet) and other care sheets?
Thanks.
Myth
Cornsnakes are ABSOLUTELY solitary. Do not house them together.
There are a variety of websites that sell frozen mice ranging from $.17 to around $.60 for adults (cheaper for pinkies).
I personally will NEVER buy anything from Rodent Pro ever again, and I strictly use The Mouse Factory, but others are out there.
www.themousefactory.com
www.bigcheeserodents.com
You can also check local reptile shows, as most have frozen mouse vendors there. If not, try a local reptile store/pet store---they're usually a bit cheaper than buying from Petco. And yes, $11 for 6 pinkies is ABSURD. I can get a bag of 50 pinkies from The Mouse Factory for less than $11.
Cornsnake DO brumate in the winter if you allow them to. Brumation is not the same as hibernation. In fact, 99% of breeders (myself included) brumate their adults in late fall through early spring at reduced temps (low 50's) to 'reset' their clocks. They get warmed back up in early spring and know that it's time to start producing eggs and all that good stuff. Brumation for just a single snake that you don't intend to breed isn't necessary, but you could certainly do it if you so choose.
As far as breeders, the top three in country are:
Kathy Love (www.cornutopia.com)
Don Soderberg (www.cornsnake.net)
Rich Zuchowski (www.serpenco.com)
You cannot go wrong with ANY of them. There are MANY smaller breeders out there (myself included) that produce some spectacular hatchlings and actually sell them for less then those 3 do. Smaller breeders don't have the name recognition so unfortunately nobody is going to pay $100 for a bloodred from Joe Schmo when they can get it from South Mountain Reptiles for $100 as well. Also, you'll find that smaller breeders tend to have better detailed records that come with snakes.
Btw, you might also consider a yearling for your first corn purchase. Those are a bit hardier and have some decent size to them, and are less prone to 'mistakes' made my new owners.
Kathy and Don have caresheets available on their websites, and there are MANY available online as well.
Just some general guidelines...
You'll need some form of heat, preferably an under the tank heater with either a thermostat or rheostat and a digital probe thermometer to measure the temps in the tank. You want your hot end to range from 82-85 and your low end to be in the mid 70's. Temp drops to 70 will not harm the snake at all.
You obviously need a water bowl that's large enough for the snake to soak in. You'll also need at least ONE hide. I personally use the plastic terra cotta saucers that go under the pots---but you can spend quite a lot of money on fancy hides. Anything works, as long as the snake has a place it can crawl under to feel secure. Two hides is ideal, but not a necessity.
I would caution you against using reptile carpet. The stuff is horrible as a substrate for snakes and it's a bacterial harboring cesspool. It is very difficult to clean, and you cannot 'spot' clean reptile carpet. Stick with aspen.
Hatchlings need to eat about every 5 days, with meal frequency decreasing as the snake gets bigger. Adult females that are breeding need to eat every 7 days, adult males can go 10-14.
Hope that helps.