Lighting & Heating

Lighting and Heating

Bearded dragons have no internal mechanism for regulating body temperature, they need an outside heat source to warm themselves for proper digestion. They are also sun loving (heliothermic) not only for heat but also to allow a process in their skin to create pre D-3 so they can absorb calcium from their diet. Deficiency can result in metabolic bone disease in bearded dragons, as in many animals that need D-3. Once signs are evident of MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) it is already to late to reverse the damage that has occurred, the best you can hope for is to halt the damage. This problem can be avoided to begin with by supplying your bearded dragon with what he needs from the day you bring him home.

Fig. 1 - Solarmeter UVB meter, for determining the UVB output of different bulbs over the course of their life.

Some Vitamin D3 can be obtained from Vitamin D-3 supplements and given to reptiles with their food, but this is not the best source or adequate to met their needs. Studies have indicated that dietary D3 cannot replace the D3 synthesized in the skin. For the best results, vitamin D3 must be obtained from regular exposure to UVB light, either from natural sunlight or one of the UVB producing lights available. We do recommend additional supplements with Rep-Cal calcium with D-3, especially for fast growing babies or gravid females.

There is currently on the market, two different sources of UVB producing lights available to private owners. One is the all in one mercury vapor light that also produces heat, the other is a florescent tube. The florescent does not produce heat, and you need to use an additional heat source along with it.

Many stores sell lights called Full Spectrum Lighting or basking lights and misinform owners that these produce UVB, they DO NOT. Unless it says UVB on the light/package, this is little more that an expense household bulb. NOTE: if you elect to use UVB florescents, you can also use a plain household bulb in another dome fixture as a heat source.

Fig. 2 - Florescent UVB tube at the front, Full-Spectrum florescent tube at the back for extra light intensity, and a regular 60 Watt household light bulb for heat inside this 32" Nesting Neodesha Cage.
We have tested over several months time, most of the UVB producing lights on the market and our recommendations of those below are based on our findings of length of production of UVB, Meter testing of UVB output, durability and customer service.

FLORESCENT UVB LIGHTING

This method has been around for many years and had fairly good success with meeting sun loving reptile's needs. The advantage to them is they are less expensive initially setting up than the MV-all in one lights. One disadvantage to them is the UVB is a lower level than MV and also the UVB diminishes faster over time. They should be replaced at minimum every 6 months unless you have a meter (Figure 1) to check the output. With florescents it is very important to use additional supplements like dusting their crickets or salads with Calcium with D-3. This is an insurance back up in case the lights are not producing enough UVB or diminish faster. The florescents are placed in a fixture and both light and fixture should cover the length of the enclosure the bearded dragon is in. As said above, you will need an additional dome type fixture for a heat source and a plain household bulb will work (Figure 2). The wattage depends on the temperature you need to heat the basking area to the desired temperatures of 95F - 105F.

Types of Florescents:

These come in a variety of lengths, here we are displaying the 18 inch ones, others are available on this link.

MERCURY VAPOR:

There are several makers of MV lights and these are the lights we have been using for 4 year now. There has been some discussions on forums and website expressing concerns about using these due to their strong UVB output. We spent many hours researching and testing this lights, our conclusion is they are the best option for bearded dragons, safe and effective.

Fig. 3 - In these 65g tanks (4' long), several babies are basking under 160Watt Powersun flood lamps suspended above the tanks, with extra supplemental basking heat provided by regular 60 Watt household light bulbs.

AS an example: Depending on the brand, florescent UVB tubes give off in the range of 9-30 uW/cm2 @ 12 inches when new and reptiles seem to thrive fine on that. (again, we recommend supplements with calcium also) Mercury Vapor gives in the range of 30-120 uW/cm2. That is equal to an overcast to sunny day at 10 AM and 2 PM. Natural sunlight on a clear summer day in Florida gives off 100 uW/cm2 at daybreak to a peak of 450 uW/cm2 at noon and then declines back down. Observing bearded dragon in natural sunlight both in Florida and talking with researchers in Australia, the dragons seems to bask full sun until about 11AM when the uW/cm2 are reaching 250 and then retire til about 2 PM when they are back at 250.

Fig. 4 - Mega-Ray Mercury Vapor bulbs produced by Mac Industries/Westron Lighting.
So you can see given the choice by the dragon, even the strongest UVB light on the market available to the public is never more than what they choose on their own and with MV, close to what they desire naturally at their prime basking times.

Types of MV Lights- All in one UVB and Heat (Floods expand UVB under and outward/Spots concentrate directly underneath them).

  • Powersun UV made by Zoo Med (Shown in use in Figure 3) This is the easier to find UVB MV light on the market, some pet stores carry them and they are usually available at Expos/shows. They have excellent customer service should you experience early burn out. They are available in 100 watt and 160 watt Flood designs. We used the Flood for most of our enclosures. This is the least expensive of the UVB MV lights.
    Powersun UV 100 watt at ReptileSupply.com
    Powersun UV 160 watt at ReptileSupply.com
  • Active UV Heat by T-Rex This light has a stronger UVB output than the Powersun, cost a bit more, but in our opinion, worth it. Harder to find locally, it is available online many places and you can click on the links below to order. Available in 100 watt and 160 watts, Flood and Spot models. Customer Service is good, not as liberal with replacement cost as the Powersun.
    T-Rex Active UV Heat Flood - 100 watt at ReptileSupply.com
    T-Rex Active UV Heat Spot - 100 watt at ReptileSupply.com
  • Active UVHeat from Wild Inside This company has like the T-Rex Lights, but customer service has never been good for us. They do have a external ballast 60 watt light that is not available from T-Rex or Zoo-Med for smaller enclosures.
    Product Photo not available
  • Mega-Ray (Figure 4) from ReptileUV by Mac Industries/Westron Lighting This company has put it all together for us, avid owners of reptiles themselves, they sought out the best, improved on it, produced companion items and all with the *best* customer service of any company. They have Self Ballast lights available in 100 watt/160 watt Flood and the External Ballast in Low, Flood and Zoo quality. Additionally they have produced what we think is the best and safest Heat Emitter around. This new design uses less wattage to produce the required heat and with the added feature of protection so the animals are safe. The owner is available for consultation of your requirements for heat or UVB, by email or phone and actually prefers you contact him and start out with the proper lights.

    Fig. 5 - Mega-Heat heat emitter from ReptileUV.com. An excellent and safer alternative to traditional Ceramic Heat Emitters.
    Their site says it all "TELL US WHAT YOU WANT, WE'LL CUSTOMIZE YOUR MEGA-RAY LAMP ACCORDINGLY! This company carries UVB meters and temperature guns also so you have accurate measure of the reptiles environment
    http://www.reptileuv.com

There is no need for night time heat if the temps do not fall below 65F. If they do fall below that at any time, the Mega-Heat Emitter (Figure 5) is a cost effective way to heat them in the night, for additional heat in other locations of an enclosure, to increase temperature to the optimal basking temps or for animals that do not need UVB and light intensity.

Bearded Dragons prefer, and require overhead heat, rather than under-belly heat. NEVER should a heat-rock be used in the enclosure. The only time under tank heating is desired is when you're dealing with a sick or impacted bearded dragon, otherwise all heat sources should be overhead.

Article by Cheri Smith
Copyright Cheri Smith, The Reptile Rooms ©2004
All images Copyright The Reptile Rooms ©2004 Unless otherwise noted.



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